We arrive in Portland on a Greyhound from Seattle. The skinny dog. There is a history to Greyhound buses. A history as aged and as complex as America itself. A history briefly mapped in Kerouac's On the Road. A history contained in the 3 minute Alt Country songs of Portland's own Richmond Fontaine. A history hard to pinpoint and define. A history that by definition is nearly always lost amongst the diesel fumes and in the lonely dirty departure lounges. It is left mostly on the black top, the road itself. But anyone who travels knows it. Can feel it's essence, it's legacy in their very soul. A restlessness, a curiosity, desire. How does that green grass on the other side taste? And aren't we all just nomads anyway? Just waiting for our bus. Eventually the skinny dog comes for us all.
We complete our South American adventure in the mountains of Peru. The trip home involves a quick detour to the US and Canada. Ending in Portland for the Oregon Brewfest.
Portland is nestled beside the Willamette and Columbus rivers. An industrial looking city with the snow capped Mt Hood in the distance. The greyhound doors opened and we walked out onto a wet Portland street. Get Living. The world is spinning. Large orange and yellow graffiti sprawled on brick wall in front of me as I looked up, backpack in hand. Appropriate words for Portland. No time to be idle. 100% organic trade free entrepreneurs getting things done and living life to the fullest with only the best ingredients.
Let's be honest, Portland is full of wierdos. Keep Portland Weird was a slogan we heard sprouted here and there. No need to promote it guys. Nothing will change. Just look at the general population. Just look at the bar menus. The infamous Portlandia Portland. All hipster beards and ethically reared chickens humanely killed to make over-priced organically fried chicken burgers topped with lactose free haloumi and fresh wild mountain grown asparagus.
My favourite Portland moment came when a local dragged us out of a bar in the middle of the night to get some doughnuts.
"If you're in Portland you just have to eat these doughnuts. Preferably in the middle of the night."
I mean 24 hour service stations kind of make sense. But 24 hour doughnuts? Only in America.
The over-sized flickering pink neon Voodoo Doughnuts sign caught my attention long before I smelt doughnuts. The line of people out on the street caught my attention long before I smelt doughnuts.
"This is a Wednesday night isn't it?" I asked.
"Sure is," our new Portland friend exclaimed.
She is way too excitable, I thought. I had just spent the day at a beer festival. Then an evening ticking off Portland's best city pubs. It was all starting to catch up with me. But sleep? No. You don't sleep. You order bacon maple doughnuts.
A hub of night-time excitement surrounded the doughnut shop. Taxis, police, homeless, revellers, lonely hearts. A girl holding a sign. Need money for bus ticket to get back to my family in Nevada. A heartbreaking face. Haggard and defeated and tired. She looked about sixteen.
All types and all circumstances, the cacophony of sweet sad beautiful misfortunate life, converge at Voodoo Doughnuts, where you can purchase doughnuts the size of your smart car. Hope you fastened the roof racks.
Malted Barley. Yeast. Water. Hops. Sweet alchemy. Who's says you can't make gold?
Oregon Brewfest is held in the Tom McCall Waterfront Park beside the Willamette River. It's the largest outdoor beer festival in North America with around 70 000 people venturing through the gates over the 5 days. We sit at tables beside the river, absorbing the Portland sun, taking notes about each beer. Cunning entrepreneurs sell pretzel necklaces over the festival fence and afternoon joggers run up and down the footpath just outside the festival grounds.
... And now we live, IPA in hand, in the departure lounge. Awaiting the next Greyhound, any minute now, to take us away on our next adventure... Get living. The world is spinning.
We complete our South American adventure in the mountains of Peru. The trip home involves a quick detour to the US and Canada. Ending in Portland for the Oregon Brewfest.
Portland is nestled beside the Willamette and Columbus rivers. An industrial looking city with the snow capped Mt Hood in the distance. The greyhound doors opened and we walked out onto a wet Portland street. Get Living. The world is spinning. Large orange and yellow graffiti sprawled on brick wall in front of me as I looked up, backpack in hand. Appropriate words for Portland. No time to be idle. 100% organic trade free entrepreneurs getting things done and living life to the fullest with only the best ingredients.
 |
| Portland Skyline - Mt Hood in the distance |
Let's be honest, Portland is full of wierdos. Keep Portland Weird was a slogan we heard sprouted here and there. No need to promote it guys. Nothing will change. Just look at the general population. Just look at the bar menus. The infamous Portlandia Portland. All hipster beards and ethically reared chickens humanely killed to make over-priced organically fried chicken burgers topped with lactose free haloumi and fresh wild mountain grown asparagus.
My favourite Portland moment came when a local dragged us out of a bar in the middle of the night to get some doughnuts.
"If you're in Portland you just have to eat these doughnuts. Preferably in the middle of the night."
I mean 24 hour service stations kind of make sense. But 24 hour doughnuts? Only in America.
The over-sized flickering pink neon Voodoo Doughnuts sign caught my attention long before I smelt doughnuts. The line of people out on the street caught my attention long before I smelt doughnuts.
"This is a Wednesday night isn't it?" I asked.
"Sure is," our new Portland friend exclaimed.
She is way too excitable, I thought. I had just spent the day at a beer festival. Then an evening ticking off Portland's best city pubs. It was all starting to catch up with me. But sleep? No. You don't sleep. You order bacon maple doughnuts.
A hub of night-time excitement surrounded the doughnut shop. Taxis, police, homeless, revellers, lonely hearts. A girl holding a sign. Need money for bus ticket to get back to my family in Nevada. A heartbreaking face. Haggard and defeated and tired. She looked about sixteen.
All types and all circumstances, the cacophony of sweet sad beautiful misfortunate life, converge at Voodoo Doughnuts, where you can purchase doughnuts the size of your smart car. Hope you fastened the roof racks.
 |
| Our late night Voodoo Doughnuts selection! |
Oregon Brewfest, a bold celebration of beer and brewing, must be one of the premier beer tasting events worldwide. The quality and quantity of beers available is mind-boggling. To sample the full range of beers available you need more than two days. On our first day, after an hour of sampling beers, we developed what we affectionately described as the IPA glow. A deep warmth rising from our guts to our cheeks. A gentle alcohol induced daze.
Malted Barley. Yeast. Water. Hops. Sweet alchemy. Who's says you can't make gold?
 |
| One of the Brewfest tents |
Oregon Brewfest is held in the Tom McCall Waterfront Park beside the Willamette River. It's the largest outdoor beer festival in North America with around 70 000 people venturing through the gates over the 5 days. We sit at tables beside the river, absorbing the Portland sun, taking notes about each beer. Cunning entrepreneurs sell pretzel necklaces over the festival fence and afternoon joggers run up and down the footpath just outside the festival grounds.
 |
| Oregon Brewfest Selfie - note the IPA Glow and token hipster beard! |
2014 Oregon Brewfest Awards:
Best beer name: Kells Brew Pub for Billy Ray Citrus.
Tasting notes: Achy Breaky Lemon HeartStrangest beer: Scuttlebutt Brewing Co. for the Jalapeño Tripel
Tasting notes: chilli con carne in a Trappiste monastery.2014 Oregon Brewfest Favourites:
There were so many favourites, but below are three I still distinctly remember six months later. And when I do remember them, I smile, my cheeks warm, the IPA glow returns. They deserve a mention:Sixpoint Craft Ales - Barrel Aged 3Beans
Tasting notes: chocolate cake, espresso, Blind Willie McTell - Broke Down EngineGreen Flash - Citra Session IPA
Tasting notes: burger and fries, summer sessions, The Beach Boys - Disney Girls (1957)Central City Brewing - Red Betty Imperial IPA
Tasting notes: cotton mouth party, honey and vegemite, King Crimson - 21st Century Schizoid Man... And now we live, IPA in hand, in the departure lounge. Awaiting the next Greyhound, any minute now, to take us away on our next adventure... Get living. The world is spinning.
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